I don't have a Sunshine or Grayline tank so my 30 gallon in my center console will have to do for now. What kind of salt is the best for this? Is there anything I'm missing, got wrong or just some tricks of the trade? Posted under the Striper section because you are the guys that know. John Promaster V, Johnson Joined: Jun Those are all good. CoffeeMate Original powdered creamer will help keep the foam off if you're on the water for a while without changing the quality of your tank water.
Also, if your tank has any corners you should put something inside to eliminate them so it's cirucular. Shad will get stuck in corners and die. Joined: Mar I think it might be 1 cup of salt per 10 gallon of water. That is about what I use. I will let some of the guys chime in on this. You can go to sunshines bait tank web page and will tell all. Also put the shad in a 5 gallon bucket of water and heavy salt. Now that is going to be around a cup per gallon for just a minute and then transfer them into the bait tank.
It will keep the bait tank cleaner. Joined: Sep Bedford TX. You might check out Tiny's tips, under aerator I believe. I don't know why the second links not working but you could do a search on hydrogen peroxide and find the page. Joined: May Arlington TX.
I'm not a proFISHional, just lucky. Joined: Feb Old Coach. Go to Sunshine web site and he will tell you everything you need to know. When I use the Shad Saver ,that is all I use. It has all the ingedients you need.
Joined: Nov Boerne, Texas. The regular cheap non-idoized salt at the grocery store will do. Water softener salt will do. As long as it is pure - no additives. Other tips: Handle the shad with a small net once they are in your tank. Only go in the tank for as many shad you need.
Don't scoop up 50 of them if you only need one. In short - don't try to get them more excited than they already are, causing them to knock off more scales, etc.
The shad alive and cool water will help this. Best bet is to try and get bait before a front hits. Threadfins can be hard to get this time of year but the gizzard shad that hatched in the spring are usually big enough by the fall. Gizzard shad do fine in the cold but threadfin will not last long.
In the winter time the shad group up into very dense schools , especially when it get really cold. Since they are grouped up that means you have to be in the right place or you get nothing. Deep coves and marinas and nighttime is better then daytime and as always check the lights.
Winter can be tough but with decent electronics and confidence you can catch more shad in the winter then any other time of year. I use poly-fill for my filter and please throw it in a trash can and not into the lake like I have seen a lot of people do. Next you need a pump to fill and drain the tank, I use a rule and about 15 foot of bilge hose, just drop the pump in the lake to fill and drop the pump in the tank to drain it. Some tanks have a drain in them but it is a bad idea to drain saltwater into your boat.
Next is a plastic wash tub from the dollar store which will be used for culling and counting bait as you move them to the tank plus gizzard shad should never be put directly into a tank because they need to go into the tub first so the excess slim can wash off. With the tub you can easily dump out your net without putting unnecessary stress on the bait. Fill the tub about half full and keep the water clean.
When Live bait fishing the bait tank is the most important piece of equipment you can have. Blueback Herring and Gizzard Shad have to be the most sensitive creatures alive. If you put them in a tank that has corners without the proper environment they will swim into the corners, push their noses into corner and use up the oxygen and die.
You must have a round or oval tank that has a good circulation system to supply oxygen which also has a filtration to remove scales, ammonia buildup, and deadly organic matter to keep the water clear and the odor down.
Keep your bait cool. You need to use salt to prevent slime and to harden the baits [approximately 1 cup per 15 Gallons of water]. Apply Shad Keeper or Better bait to the water to help supply electrolytes and reduce stress. Use Foam Off if foam forms on the surface of the water.
Foam robs the water of oxygen transfer. Foam is an indication of poor water quality , find the reason and fix it. Never overcrowd your bait tank. Generally speaking, to keep bait properly for a 12 hour period at its optimum level a good ratio to follow would be for Blueback Herring no more than 1.
Many factors will change the ratios, the longer you wish to keep them and the warmer the water temperature, the greater the ratios should be.
Always keep you filters clean. Change half the water in the tank if you want to keep the baits in excess of 12 hours, taking care not to change the water temp by more than 10 degrees. Eliminating the stress in bait will keep the baits healthier and longer. Nothing ruins a Striper trip more than to look down into your bait tank and see your baits spinning around belly up! Assuming you know how to throw a net properly, here are a few facts that may help you collect bait better. Coverage area of a net is measured in square feet.
Nets are sold by the radius, so an 8 foot net spans 16 feet across if properly thrown. Although a 6 foot net is a good starter net, the 8 foot net will catch substantially more bait.
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